Like a lot of things in Amsterdam the plans were quite ambitious in one sense but modest in another. As a result, the 17th century city centre is, to this very day, in almost the same condition as it has been since it was built.

The first changes that did take place were legislative: in 1901 the government passed Housing-Law. Especially the quality of the housing for low-income families had to be increased drastically. About twenty years after the finishing of the terribly poorly constructed neighborhood “De Pijp”, a number of new blocks for the “working man” were built by graduates from the Amsterdam School of architecture (”Amsterdamse School”), most notoriously Michel de Klerk.

Ambitious in its goals, sturdy housing for family of all incomes, but modest in its implementation, it is tucked away at the border of the city. In the Spaarndammer neighborhood (”Spaarndammerbuurt”), above the Westerpark, you will find three big complexes that can be rightly described as palaces for the working man. They are worth visiting.

The neighborhood is a residential area, and apart from a big museum, the old buildings are still housing families or small shops. There is hardly anything that will remind you that you are still in one of the most touristic cities of the world, yet the brick buildings you find there are reminiscent of Gaudi, created with unbridled imagination.

The entire city blocks flow into a whole that is even more organic than you will find in the “Art Nouveau” cityscapes of Budapest, Paris or Brussels. Especially the block in which “Museum ‘t Schip” (a museum for the architecture of the Amsterdamse School) is located seems to have grown, or cast out of stone, rather than constructed by piling brick after brick on top of each other.

Go there if you want to be surprised by stunning architecture, or if you are in the neighborhood of the Westerpark or the Westergasfabriek (see this article). If you do, bear in mind that the buildings were foremost meant to provide residence to people with little money, and that they are still doing so. This is applied art at its finest.

Details about this spot
Museum ‘t Ship | Art & culture | Museum € 2.50
Spaarndammerplantsoen 140 | Westerpark (area map) | +31204182885
18:00 - 01:00 daily

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In my quest for an authentic pub experience I’ve been stopping by a small pub called “The Minds” quite often lately.

It is small, brown, and what’s more, smoky! Yes despite the ban on smoking in public places, the clientele is still steadily puffing away over here. It doesn’t matter whether they’d be sucking on a joint or on a cigarette, them smokers do provide this dark and shady atmosphere that even I as a non-smoker have been missing since the ban.

For the health freaks this is obviously not a strong selling point. The alternative, relaxed crowd might be however, just as the stone hard rock music that is constantly being played. From The Doors to Queens of the Stone Age and everything in between. The bartender, who’s been the owner of The Minds as long as anybody can remember, obviously plays just what he likes.

I happen to think that this is the perfect way to attract the people to your establishment that fit in. If you like rock in all its different shapes, cheap beer and smoking, you should go to The Minds. Don’t mind the interior, it’s all rough edges, the atmosphere is better than in most other pubs.

Details about this spot
The Minds | Bars | beer € 1.60
Spuistraat 245 | Old center (area map)
21:00 - 3:00 Su - Thu, 21:00 - 4:00 Fri - Sat

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Not only does he select those hidden, twisted gems that you would not find yourself, he also drags you into the world of the filmmaker. By mixing factual information with juicy details about the often quite eccentric lives of the directors, he creates the right context for the viewer to experience the film in, in all its richness.

The main feature is usually preceded by an equally interesting short film, after which you have some time to drink a beer and reset your mind. The intimate interior has the look and feel of a living room; it has the right atmosphere to contemplate on the movie you have seen, and to let your mind slowly wander back to reality.

If you need explaining, or want to know more about the filmmaker, you can strike up a conversation with the host, who’s probably hanging around having a beer as well.

The films at De Nieuwe Anita (aka DNA) are not for the faint-of-hearted, rather for those who like to be stunned, baffled or shocked. If you are open to it they can offer a momentary escape to a realm that can be perverted but beautiful, or terrifyingly philosophical.

Cinemanita takes place every Monday night at 20.30. Be there at least half an hour in advance, as the seats are usually quickly taken.

Details about this spot
Cinemanita | Cinemas | Ticket € 2.00
Frederik Hendrikstraat 111 | Oud-West (area map) | +31641503512
Mon 20:30

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Although you might as well go to Belgium to try the Flemish fries, it’s a lovely country after all, you can get a taste of them in Amsterdam as well.

At Vleminckx in the Voetboogstraat, near Spui, you can help yourself to a beautiful bag of light-golden fries; thick, crispy on the outside, perfectly textured, slightly crummy on the inside.

They sell no other snacks than these little golden wonders, but you can cover them with a wide variety of Dutch and Belgium sauces.

You do have to wade through a horde of shopping tourists and families to get there, but the reward will be worthwhile.

If you are shopping on the busiest shopping streets of the city, Leidsestraat or Kalverstraat, you can get a quick power boost at this always busy little snack bar.

Don’t be fooled by the line of people standing in front of it; you will be served quickly and efficiently. If you are not in the neighborhood, but happen to be fond of fries, take the trip to have them at Vleminckx.

Details about this spot
Vleminckx | Snacks | Flemish fries (medium) € 2.70
Voetboogstraat 31 | Old center (area map)
Mon - Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 17:30

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This cinema/bar is run by a staff of about forty-five volunteers that are all students. Since I am one of them, my perception of the place might be quite different from that of a customer. I have however experienced Kriterion literally at every hour of the day and at every hour of the night, and I might be able to give you a good insight into what it has to offer.

Kriterion has been through a lot of reconstruction work in the summer, which resulted in a new smoke-free space in the bar, and a third room for our cinema. We took the opportunity to cover the once white but since long nicotine-yellow walls with a new layer of paint. The color scheme gives a fresher look and blends in with the original features of the building. Although it looks a bit more modern, the atmosphere of a “bruin café” (that’s the Dutch word for all smoky, dark colored bars, with dimmed lights and wooden floors) is maintained.

Located in front of one of the bigger branches of the UvA (University of Amsterdam) our café is swarmed by students during the day. Their continuing presence shows that the hours in between classes are longer than the classes themselves. The UvA students spend their free time drinking lattes or cappuccino’s (this to my annoyance; I want to hug everyone that orders an espresso), reading a newspaper, or, I see this quite often, studying.

What looks like a café during the day, feels more like a pub at night. With the candles lit, the music turned up a bit, and a friendly beer drinking crowd, I dare to say that Kriterion is the only cinema in Amsterdam that has a real pub in it. You can go there just to drink a beer, or just to see a movie, but for anybody that wants to combine these two experiences, Kriterion is the perfect place. It is one of the main things that attracted me, since I like to think of going to the movies as going out. Besides, the conversations about the movie seem so much more insightful when you’re gulping down a cold beer.

If you’re from abroad you will not feel a stranger, since a large part of Kriterion’s clientele consists of foreign students or member of our international community. You can easily blend in with a very diverse crowd of moviegoers, students from all over, and the quite eccentric individuals living in the neighborhood.

Details about this spot
Kriterion | Bars, Cinemas | Movie € 7.00
Roetersstraat 170 | Plantage/Oost (area map) | +31206231708
Mon - Fri 10:30 - 01:00, Fri 10:30 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00

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This brown colored pub on the Kloveniersburgwal was here when my father was studying in Amsterdam. It is supposed to be a literary café, a place where you can read a book or newspaper in peace, but I usually find it quite lively.

It has a layout that is typical for Amsterdam: quite narrow and deep. There is only sunlight in the front, but bars like these are not supposed to be bathing in light. The crowd is usually positioned in the narrow space in front of the bar, in the smoke free area back you can sit down in relative peace; take a look at the photos that are exhibited, or play a board game.

This place has an atmosphere that you will not find in newer bars, but what is more, they serve beers that you will not find anywhere else in Amsterdam. It is not a beer café per se, but the beers they have on tap are exquisite. I would not know where to find a tastier beer on a hot summer day. You can enjoy it on the patio facing the canal, in front, across the street.

During the day you can have a tasty lunch, served on proper, thick slices of bread. After five in the afternoon you can pick your dinner from the small menu written on a chalkboard in front of the bar. The food is tasty and far from expensive; the meal of the day will set you back about Euro 8.50. It is no haute cuisine, but it is good and healthy and you can flush it away with a delicious beer.

Details about this spot
Engelbewaarder | Bars, Restaurants (Lunch) | Beer € 2.00
Kloveniersburgwal 59 | Old center (area map) | +31206253772
Mon - Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00

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At the beginning of the Spuistraat you find a small club called Bitterzoet (Bittersweet). Its interior is not very sophisticated, but the beats they play in it are.

The music they offer ranges from reggae to hip-hop to dub-step, and occasionally a little bit of pop or electro. I have spent many nights shaking my ass off on the crowded dance floor.

If you are into the styles they serve, go there for some serious partying. If you want to cool down from a long bouncing session, you can go upstairs to play pool or overlook the sweaty crowd.

On the club nights that are less mainstream, the club is filled with a selective crowd that comes to experience the music. There is always the chance that you won´t feel at home, but I always feel comfortable when I am surrounded by people that are thoroughly enjoying the DJ´s labor.

Go to the Bitterzoet in optimal physical shape, because you are going to work up some sweat.

Details about this spot
Bitterzoet | Music | Beer € 2.00
Spuistraat 2 | Old center (area map) | +31205213001
Sun - Thu 22:00, Fri- Sat 22:00, 04:00

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I am one of those cats that is unable to study in a quiet environment. What I need is a lively environment, with chattering people in it having a pleasant time.

Café Crea is located on the grounds of some of the most beautiful buildings of the UvA (University of Amsterdam), and it is a haven for students looking for a break. As the place is divided into three smaller parts, the conversations of the guests do not bounce around against the walls, but fill the rooms with a pleasant humming.

Crea is one of my favorite places to go to when I need to study or write, want to drink coffee and read a newspaper, or drink a beer with fellow students. Located in a quieter part, but right the middle of the centre, it is a perfect base of operations to plan your explorations in.

In the meantime you can enjoy a delicious coffee, French toast, a sandwich or a bowl of soup, or even a decent and decently priced dinner between five and eight-thirty. With a different atmosphere in each of the rooms and a small patio on the canal side, you can be sure to find a spot that fits your mood.

The view from the patio is picturesque in a way that is typical for Amsterdam. Since I have been studying at the UvA, I have found the surroundings of Crea very inspiring. You feel very close to the history of the city and the university. When you are there, take the time to enjoy the atmosphere and stroll around between the university-buildings.

Details about this spot
Café Crea | Coffee & tea, Bars, Restaurants (international) | Beer € 2.00
Turfdraagsterpad 17 | Old center (area map) | +31205251423
Mon - Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00

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The mix of tourists, hip students, and locals creates a relaxed, but outgoing atmosphere.

The Noordermarkt area has always been very popular, therefore Finch is packed almost all the time..

The food is simple, but tasteful and not too expensive. Maybe it’s not the best place to go for dinner, as the staff sometimes has a problem with serving the bar, making coffees, playing the right music, ánd have a chat with some of locals…

But, if you’re not too hungry and not in a hurry: why not.

Details about this spot
Finch Café | Bars, Restaurants (International) | Wine € 2.80
Noordermarkt 5 | Jordaan (area map) | +31206262461
Mon 07:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri & Sun 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00- 03:00

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A place to go to for breakfast, lunch and after work drinks. If you have something to celebrate, small parties are welcome, but please call a little in advance.

The interior is modern and elegant. Beautiful photo’s decorate the walls.

Breakfast is a feast with many choices. Lunch offers a range of nice salads, tosti’s, egg-dishes, slices of bread sandwiches with delicious fillings and toppings and interesting finishing sweets.

Details about this spot
Valerius Eten & Drinken | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Breakfast € 8.00
Banstraat 14 | Oud-Zuid (area map) | +31204713976
Mon - Fri 09:00 - 18:00

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